Tag Archives: writing

enter a surf contest

semifinals

Oh man, I only needed 4.74 to make the finals! Totally doable. 🙂

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write

a desk, finally.

3 months of California in a campervan

3 months of Costa Rica and the Pura Vida

7 months in Australia (and still counting)

1 gypsy quiver

1 valentina genuine leather journal and blue pen

1 adventure proof camera

=

1 bitchin’ surf story to pen*

*names will be changed to protect the identities of surfer boys. SHAKA!!

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so you want to be a writer?

Charles Bukowski
if it doesn’t come bursting out of you
in spite of everything,
don’t do it.
unless it comes unasked out of your
heart and your mind and your mouth
and your gut,
don’t do it.
if you have to sit for hours
staring at your computer screen
or hunched over your
typewriter
searching for words,
don’t do it.
if you’re doing it for money or
fame,
don’t do it.
if you’re doing it because you want
women in your bed,
don’t do it.
if you have to sit there and
rewrite it again and again,
don’t do it.
if it’s hard work just thinking about doing it,
don’t do it.
if you’re trying to write like somebody
else,
forget about it.
if you have to wait for it to roar out of you,
then wait patiently.
if it never does roar out of you,
do something else.
if you first have to read it to your wife
or your girlfriend or your boyfriend or your parents
or to anybody at all,
you’re not ready.
don’t be like so many writers,
don’t be like so many thousands of people
who call themselves writers,
don’t be dull and boring and
pretentious, don’t be consumed with self- love.
the libraries of the world have
yawned themselves to
sleep
over your kind.
don’t add to that.
don’t do it.
unless it comes out of
your soul like a rocket,
unless being still
would drive you to madness or
suicide or murder,
don’t do it.
unless the sun inside you is
burning your gut,
don’t do it.
when it is truly time,
and if you have been chosen,
it will do it by
itself and it will keep on doing it
until you die or it dies in you.
there is no other way.
and there never was.
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read surf books

In order of when they found me:

Let my people go surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard

Oriented Consciousness Mastering in the Practice of Surfing by Castello de Costa et al.

Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook

The Girl’s guide to Surfing by Andrea McCloud (girls only, no boys allowed)

The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories

Surfing California: A Complete Guide to the Best Breaks on the California Coast

H20 Surf Travel Guide Costa Rica by Jonathan Yonkers Chavarria

Eddie Would Go by Stuart Holmes Coleman

How to be a surfer by João De Macedo (eternal barrel filled with rainbows!)

Pipe Dreams: A Surfer’s Journey by Kelly Slater (E=MC2)

Layne Beachley: Beneath The Waves by Michael Gordon

The Badlands (pretty pictures)

Bells: The Beach, The Surfers, The Contest

The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing

Grey Skies, Green Waves: A Surfer’s Journey Around the Uk and Ireland by Tom Anderson (never finished it)

Hitting The Lip: Surfing in South Africa by Cornel Barnett

Stoked! By Bob McTavish

The Hidden Messages in Water by Masaru Emoto

Gidget by Frederick Kohner

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my sisters

Seen from Canmore: Big Sister (Faith), Middle Sister (Charity) and Little Sister (Hope)

Thanks for lending me your gold key, Laurie. I’m 10 chapters deep, 5 yin yoga classes loose, and packing up my bags for Oz with the strength of Three Sisters.

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