Oh man, I only needed 4.74 to make the finals! Totally doable. 🙂
3 months of California in a campervan
3 months of Costa Rica and the Pura Vida
7 months in Australia (and still counting)
1 valentina genuine leather journal and blue pen
1 adventure proof camera
=
1 bitchin’ surf story to pen*
*names will be changed to protect the identities of surfer boys. SHAKA!!
In order of when they found me:
Let my people go surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard
Oriented Consciousness Mastering in the Practice of Surfing by Castello de Costa et al.
Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook
The Girl’s guide to Surfing by Andrea McCloud (girls only, no boys allowed)
The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories
Surfing California: A Complete Guide to the Best Breaks on the California Coast
H20 Surf Travel Guide Costa Rica by Jonathan Yonkers Chavarria
Eddie Would Go by Stuart Holmes Coleman
How to be a surfer by João De Macedo (eternal barrel filled with rainbows!)
Pipe Dreams: A Surfer’s Journey by Kelly Slater (E=MC2)
Layne Beachley: Beneath The Waves by Michael Gordon
The Badlands (pretty pictures)
Bells: The Beach, The Surfers, The Contest
The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing
Grey Skies, Green Waves: A Surfer’s Journey Around the Uk and Ireland by Tom Anderson (never finished it)
Hitting The Lip: Surfing in South Africa by Cornel Barnett
Stoked! By Bob McTavish
The Hidden Messages in Water by Masaru Emoto
Gidget by Frederick Kohner
Thanks for lending me your gold key, Laurie. I’m 10 chapters deep, 5 yin yoga classes loose, and packing up my bags for Oz with the strength of Three Sisters.