Tag Archives: books


It was the best laid plans of mice and men: Score a noserider for Nationals and I’d be golden.

But alas! My master strategy backfired.

A challenge is why I signed up, and by golly, gee whiz, where ya from, eh? A challenge is what I got.

It took me 10-minutes to punch out the back. Not longboard conditions at all. If I hadn’t been “training” on my friends’ 10′ for the last two weeks, the shortest board possible would’ve been my choice.

I caught one gem though. That wave put me on the scoreboard.

Also got worked on the inside by a large set. Someone told me later they thought that was the one of the biggest sets they’d seen all day.

My friend Jay shared this photo he snapped of me in the white jersey. It certainly showed how unruly the conditions were. Head high closeouts to the horizon. My arms flailing for balance as I rode one in on the inside.

Who wants to paddle out into that, right? Local knowledge or not, there are plenty of excuses I could have deployed for not surfing these big waves.

But I had paid the $60 registration fee, my name was on the competitive matrix, and I was surfing in the contest. There’s no crying in baseball, and Mother’s Day weekend makes you call for your mommy.

The play-by-play over the speakers was muffled on account of the wind and heavy sets.

After changing in the parking lot, I humbly made my way back to Wickaninnish Beach with my camera bag and notepad in tow. There were junior National crowns to be handed out, after all. SUP surf titles too.

I found a vacant beach chair in front of the Corona tent and plopped myself down, ready to watch all the action from the shore, just like a spectatrice.







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read surf books

In order of when they found me:

Let my people go surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman by Yvon Chouinard

Oriented Consciousness Mastering in the Practice of Surfing by Castello de Costa et al.

Surf Survival: The Surfer’s Health Handbook

The Girl’s guide to Surfing by Andrea McCloud (girls only, no boys allowed)

The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories

Surfing California: A Complete Guide to the Best Breaks on the California Coast

H20 Surf Travel Guide Costa Rica by Jonathan Yonkers Chavarria

Eddie Would Go by Stuart Holmes Coleman

How to be a surfer by João De Macedo (eternal barrel filled with rainbows!)

Pipe Dreams: A Surfer’s Journey by Kelly Slater (E=MC2)

Layne Beachley: Beneath The Waves by Michael Gordon

The Badlands (pretty pictures)

Bells: The Beach, The Surfers, The Contest

The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing

Grey Skies, Green Waves: A Surfer’s Journey Around the Uk and Ireland by Tom Anderson (never finished it)

Hitting The Lip: Surfing in South Africa by Cornel Barnett

Stoked! By Bob McTavish

The Hidden Messages in Water by Masaru Emoto

Gidget by Frederick Kohner

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