As the cold southern sand kisses my feet
The quietness of the country
No one’s out but swell
There’s a creative buzz about the city
Sun spot on a grassy knoll
No wonder she’s the world’s best
The most delicious man approaches
Eyes me like a child
No telling where the story goes next
So bloody beautiful and providing
Sadly far from home
No way I can stay?
DAMN YOU VICTORIA
rock up show up ei: he better rock up soon
how ya going? how are you?
mate friend, buddy, pal, dude, etc etc (tag it on to pretty much any sentence)
reckon to gather/to think ei:reckon it’ll rain this arvo, mate?
Tally Ho a preferred brand of rolling papers
op shop thrift store
frothin’ you feel it after a good session
teabaggin’ it sitting out on your board not catching waves, just floating
Bunyip A mythical creature (like a Sasquatch)
root, rooting, rooted fuck, fucking, fucked
Mermaid that’s me
no drama no worries
I reckon learning Australian is much easier than Learning Spanish, mate!
We may obsess about our PBs and mileage count, but these things alone are not enough to get us out running. We could find easier ways to chart and measure things. We could become trainspotters, or accountants. No, the times and charts are merely carrots we dangle in front of our rational mind, our over-analytical brain, to give it a reason to come along for the ride. What really drives us on is something else, this need to feel human, to reach below the multitude of layers of roles and responsibilities society has placed on us, down below the company name tags, even the father, the husband, son labels, to the pure, raw human being underneath. At such moments, our rational mind becomes redundant. We move from thought to feeling.
Running with the Kenyans: Discovering the secrets of the fastest people on earth. Written by Adharanand Finn.
Applies to surfing too.
World famous Bells Beach, Victoria, is renowned for its consistent big surf and is home to the longest running contest event on surfing’s World Championship Tour. The contest final on Easter Sunday 1965 was an epic event when Bells revealed its awesome power on a scale not seen before. The surf was extremely big and dangerous as depicted in this photograph of the shorebreak at the Winky Pop end of the beach.
© Barrie Sutherland Heritage Photograph.
Did I mention I like big waves?
P.S. I’m cold!
Barrie Sutherland is an Australian pioneer surf photographer who surfed and photographed the Victorian Surf Coast during the 1960s. His work is noted for its strong tonal quality and composition, reflecting the power-laden ground swells of the Surf Coast.
Has to do with surfing too…