so you want to be a writer?

Charles Bukowski
if it doesn’t come bursting out of you
in spite of everything,
don’t do it.
unless it comes unasked out of your
heart and your mind and your mouth
and your gut,
don’t do it.
if you have to sit for hours
staring at your computer screen
or hunched over your
searching for words,
don’t do it.
if you’re doing it for money or
don’t do it.
if you’re doing it because you want
women in your bed,
don’t do it.
if you have to sit there and
rewrite it again and again,
don’t do it.
if it’s hard work just thinking about doing it,
don’t do it.
if you’re trying to write like somebody
forget about it.
if you have to wait for it to roar out of you,
then wait patiently.
if it never does roar out of you,
do something else.
if you first have to read it to your wife
or your girlfriend or your boyfriend or your parents
or to anybody at all,
you’re not ready.
don’t be like so many writers,
don’t be like so many thousands of people
who call themselves writers,
don’t be dull and boring and
pretentious, don’t be consumed with self- love.
the libraries of the world have
yawned themselves to
over your kind.
don’t add to that.
don’t do it.
unless it comes out of
your soul like a rocket,
unless being still
would drive you to madness or
suicide or murder,
don’t do it.
unless the sun inside you is
burning your gut,
don’t do it.
when it is truly time,
and if you have been chosen,
it will do it by
itself and it will keep on doing it
until you die or it dies in you.
there is no other way.
and there never was.
Tagged , ,

damn you victoria

As the cold southern sand kisses my feet

The quietness of the country

No one’s out but swell

Damn you Victoria

There’s a creative buzz about the city

Sun spot on a grassy knoll

No wonder she’s the world’s best

Damn you Victoria

The most delicious man approaches

Eyes me like a child

No telling where the story goes next

Damn you Victoria

So bloody beautiful and providing

Sadly far from home

No way I can stay?


Tagged ,

Learn Australian

ta thanks

rock up show up ei: he better rock up soon

brekkie breakfast

maccas Macdonalds

Straya Australia

arvo afternoon

mozzies mosquitos

how ya going? how are you?

g’day hello

mate friend, buddy, pal, dude, etc etc (tag it on to pretty much any sentence)

reckon to gather/to think ei:reckon it’ll rain this arvo, mate?

Tally Ho a preferred brand of rolling papers

op shop thrift store

bogin’ redneck

frothin’ you feel it after a good session

teabaggin’ it sitting out on your board not catching waves, just floating

Bunyip A mythical creature (like a Sasquatch)

root, rooting, rooted fuck, fucking, fucked

Mermaid that’s me

no drama no worries

I reckon learning Australian is much easier than Learning Spanish, mate!

Tagged , ,

see it

coup d’oeil

“The ornithologist David Sibley says that in Cape May, New Jersey, he once spotted a bird in flight from two hundred yards away and knew, instantly, that it was a ruff, a rare sandpiper. He had never seen a ruff in flight before; nor was the moment long enough for him to make a careful identification. But he was able to capture what bird-watchers call the bird’s “giss” – it’s essence – and that was enough.

Malcolm Gladwell, blink: The power of thinking without thinking

Tagged , , ,


We may obsess about our PBs and mileage count, but these things alone are not enough to get us out running. We could find easier ways to chart and measure things. We could become trainspotters, or accountants. No, the times and charts are merely carrots we dangle in front of our rational mind, our over-analytical brain, to give it a reason to come along for the ride. What really drives us on is something else, this need to feel human, to reach below the multitude of layers of roles and responsibilities society has placed on us, down below the company name tags, even the father, the husband, son labels, to the pure, raw human being underneath. At such moments, our rational mind becomes redundant. We move from thought to feeling.

Running with the Kenyans: Discovering the secrets of the fastest people on earth. Written by Adharanand Finn.

Applies to surfing too.

Tagged , ,

get a j.o.b.

The story of my life could easily be told by the water bottles I’ve owned (and lost) along the way.

Stoke the fires of the members’ desires Version 2.0 AU Division. (definite lolcoaster)

Tagged ,

the surf coast

World famous Bells Beach, Victoria, is renowned for its consistent big surf and is home to the longest running contest event on surfing’s World Championship Tour. The contest final on Easter Sunday 1965 was an epic event when Bells revealed its awesome power on a scale not seen before. The surf was extremely big and dangerous as depicted in this photograph of the shorebreak at the Winky Pop end of the beach.

© Barrie Sutherland Heritage Photograph.

Did I mention I like big waves?

P.S. I’m cold!

Barrie Sutherland is an Australian pioneer surf photographer who surfed and photographed the Victorian Surf Coast during the 1960s. His work is noted for its strong tonal quality and composition, reflecting the power-laden ground swells of the Surf Coast.

Tagged , , , ,


Stood there boldly
Sweating in the sun
Felt like a million
Felt like number one
The height of summer
I’d never felt that strong
Like a rock

Tagged , , ,

open up


“At some point the story must take over. You are not going to be able to control it.”

Peter Taylor quoting Frank O’Connor

Tagged , , ,


Has to do with surfing too…

Tagged , , , , ,