cover girl


The Surfer’s Path Issue 98 Sep // Oct 2013

The Surfer’s Path printed* my story titled ‘Her Endless Summer’.

6-pages, 2500-words… And a mention in the editor’s note:

“It’s about a girl who decided to learn to surf and, oozing with glee, determination and cocky energy, she damn well does. Over a year or so, her mission takes her from Canada to Burleigh, with multiple stops along the way, and from total kook to beaming surf queen. Getting good shots of Nora surfing wasn’t easy, so we had to settle for some more generic shots of surf queens riding and, stone me if all the best ones we found didn’t just happen to be… righthanders.” – ADR  (pity about those rights ADR, since I’m way into lefts.) 🙂

*The Surfer’s Path is the first 100% “green” surf magazine – printed on 100-percent post-consumer recycled paper (processed without chlorine bleach) with non-GMO soy inks. RAD.

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meet a merman

It’s awkward ’cause he keeps trying to get me to play with his kites.

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sleeping beauty

9pm. my big bros’ wedding. calgary, alberta, canada.

Princess Aurora: Oh, dear. Why do they still treat me like a child?

Owl: Who?

Princess Aurora: Aunt Flora, and Fauna, and Merryweather. They never want me to meet anyone.


Princess Aurora: But you know something? I fooled them. I *have* met someone.

Owl: Who? Who?

Princess Aurora: Oh, a prince.

[Birds chirp]

Princess Aurora: Well, he’s tall and handsome, and… and so romantic.

[Birds chirp]

Princess Aurora: Oh, we walk together, and talk together, and just before we say goodbye, he takes me in his arms, and then… I wake up.

[all the animals sigh]

Princess Aurora: Yes, it’s only in my dreams. But they say if you dream a thing more than once, it’s sure to come true, and I’ve seen him so many times.

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15 things I love about australia

I spent a year exploring waves around the Gold Coast, NSW, and Victoria. It was a bumpy road, but what an unforgettable ride.

  1. Vegemite on buttered toast (or English muffin).
  2. The extreme overuse of the word ‘mate’.
  3. The way the waves peel off Burleigh Point, crashing onto a bed of gorgeous basalt rocks, sunrise on the horizon.
  4. The rainbows about Victoria.
  5. The birds.
  6. Triple J 107.5 FM.
  7. Vegemite on crackers with white cheddar cheese.
  8. Cherry Ripe, Red Rock Deli Honey Soy Chicken chips, Uncle Tobys Oats.
  9. Cheeky groms. (AKA my ‘competition’. HA!)
  10. Campervans about Byron Bay.
  11. Wearing flip flops year-round.
  12. Cheap local red wine. (Sipping good for the price, mates.)
  13. Torquay! It’s simply the best.
  14. Climbing Point Perp.
  15. Bells Beach at sunset. Bells Beach in the rain. Bells Beach on a Thursday. Bells Beach. XX
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there’s the ending

luck let’s you out the back

(Nate, you can have my Al Merrick if I eat shit and die.)

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vomit draft

UNEDITED excerpt from

pony up or eat it

by nora o’malley

part I

california (is a good kisser)

“That right there’s a surfer girl,” another said.

Instead of turning their way, I kept my gaze on the waves. There’s only one thing a pro surfer wants from a pretty girl anyways, and it ain’t her company in the water. Let me assure you.

When the pot wore off, I made my way back to San O to suit up for a longboard. But oddly enough, I was thinking about shortboarding the entire time.

chapter 21
Dating when you’re living out of a campervan is hard work, but I was trying. I picked up this one surfer boy at Blackies named Andreas. He was from Greece, studying Physics at the University of California. He surfed and he climbed, which was a bonus since I was hoping to find someone to go to Joshua Tree with. I also liked the fact that he was a gorgeous nerd with an unruly head of curly brown hair. I was a sucker for messy locks.

Our first official ‘date’ was coffee and a boiled egg (I kid you not, he made me a boiled egg) at his place on campus followed by a mission to T-Street in San Clemente. T-Street was definitely a level or two up from the waves at San O. Like Trestles, it broke faster, meaning YOU had to be faster.

We parked just up the hill from the beach where the parking was free. Andreas took his shortboard, I waxed up Patience the longboard. His dark eyes widened as I awkwardly changed out of my red jean shorts and black tank top into my 3/2 wetsuit. I already had a blue bikini underneath my clothes in anticipation for the moment.

As we approached the shore, we scouted the lineup for a spot to sit.

“I’m gonna sit on the outside,” I said and pointed to a vacant lot just left of the pod of surfers. There were some decent surfers out there. I didn’t want to get in anyone’s way.

“Well, I’ll be around there,” Andreas said and pointed to the middle of the lineup.

“OK! Maybe see you out there,” I said. Clearly this surf date was off to a great start!

It wasn’t easy getting out past the break. The white walls were much more powerful than San O and I got spit back to the shore a couple times before I finally made it out. Then I spent about an eternity trying to catch waves, but missing. Or getting tossed.

When I eventually got out of the water, Andreas was already waiting for me by the showers. He had already changed and had something to eat.

“Fuck, sorry about that! I didn’t realize I was out for so long,” I said.

“Where were you?” he said.

“I was sitting on the outside the whole time. You didn’t see me?”

“Nope,” he said.

“How could you not see me! I was the only one out with long hair,” I said.

We drove back to his place exchanging uncomfortable dialogue. He invited me up for a joint, I accepted, but in hindsight I should have just kept cruising. After the joint I stood up to leave.

“You’re going?” he said.

“Ya, I’m gonna go find a place to park the van for the night,” I said. What did he think that just because I was living out of a van that I’d put out on the first date?

Andreas desperately tried to hold my attention by offering up another joint.

“Nah, I’m tired. Gonna header,” I said. “Gimme a call if you want to go surfing again!”

I was just being polite. I knew he wouldn’t call. Surfing is an innately selfish sport, and we both weren’t willing to compromise our own ocean agendas just yet. Oh well, there’s always climbing… Only if there’s no swell or I have a flesh wound that can’t get wet, of course.

chapter 22

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Victoria’s Secret

Very sexy string of waves coming through.

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live the dream

Torquay, Great Ocean Road, Australia. Winter 2013. Photo: Tom Powell

it’s never too late

you’re never too old

you’re never too sick

to start from scratch

to be born again

– Bikram Choudhury

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a desk, finally.

3 months of California in a campervan

3 months of Costa Rica and the Pura Vida

7 months in Australia (and still counting)

1 gypsy quiver

1 valentina genuine leather journal and blue pen

1 adventure proof camera


1 bitchin’ surf story to pen*

*names will be changed to protect the identities of surfer boys. SHAKA!!

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miss your van


Please post The Belgian over to Oz along with my Bday card.



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