PART 1: CALIFORNIA
Backstory I’ve done something like this before.
Dirtbag It It’s a personal choice. And I dig it!
The Van Camperized my dodge caravan and lived off Orange County land for 3 months.
Decision Day Also known as first flesh wound day.
How To Survive A Stingray Attack They know how to bring The Pain.
PART 2: COSTA RICA
Dazed and Tranquilo There’s something special about Costa Rica y la Pura Vida.
Learn Spanish Buena mota, sabor como piña.
Journal “Get out of my water you fucking Gringa!”
Revelation I like big waves. And also, I’m writing a book about surfing.
10 Things My Hawaiian Brother Taught Me About Surfing
PART 3: AUSTRALIA
Hollow & Wide Open An exotic kook in a sea of pros.
Surfing the Gold Coast Between story time and nap time, I get the job done.
Excuses For Not Surfing Gnarly storm rocks Queensland on Straya Day.
Journal I’m steamed. Absolutely heated. It turns me on when surfer boys say mean things.
Climb Sea cliff climbing in Point Perp, NSW. (Has to do with surfing too!)
Learn Australian G’day mate! I reckon we go to maccas for brekkie.
Damn You Victoria As the cold southern sand kisses my feet.
Bells There’s the ending. Luck let’s you out the back.
#2 wins. by far.
ya, Costa had Nate AND Lizano sauce. Hard to top. (but keep trying Australia.)
second but California gave me blue dream.