Category Archives: Australia

surfing the gold coast

Burleigh Girl

Burleigh Girl 26 Nov 2012

Between story time and nap time, I get the job done. Here’s a rundown of my first two months:

  • Burleigh Heads is my local, so I guess that makes me a Burleigh Girl. At first light when the wind is calm, this legendary right point break peels to perfection. Jump off the rocks to get in position or use the rip that hugs the bay. Be ready – she’s not one for the weary kind.
  • Main Beach (Lame Beach) holds big sets that crumble like pastry. Pick your peak and paddle out. It’s a wide-open beach break.
  • South Straddie Island hosts a thick and powerful curl. For six bucks return a ferry shuttles surfers over or you can paddle the short distance across the seaway. Warning: She licks hard. Real hard. Careful not to break your neck on the sandbar!
  • Currumbin Alley (Puppy PDE) is a money wave plus free parking. I have yet to pay the access fee for actually ‘Alley’ out back, because the inside still pleases. (Feel free to drop in, boys.)
  • Snapper Rocks has an obnoxious rip that’s a serious pain in the ass. Get stoked to catch one, get out, and jog back around to the paddle out point. It’s the Snapper Circuit! No wonder AU surfers are so fit.
  • Duranbah (D-bah) is a little bay that’s clutch when the beach breaks look uninviting. A lot of the hot pros play there, so I shy away. Gorgeous spot though.
  • The River Mouth is good for stand up paddleboarding or worth a try in dire straits. There’s something special about surfing the river mouth… Bull sharks maybe?
  • Dog Beach is my secret spot. It’s lonely out there and I always score.

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Wavefinder Australia

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hollow & wide open

gutted

broke

an exotic kook in a sea of pros

take my Costa Rican charm

taint my Hawaiian hair

change the very reflection of my big dark eyes

AUSTRALIA

stroke me

wet

come right inside

take me

take me

I’M YOURS

hollow

and

wide open

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commit

Ticket booked.

But I’m 0-4 on the resumes sent out, so unless I get lucky and somebody picks me up, here’s the tentative game plan:

Byron Bay – GET A FUCKING JOB

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earn it

3 months in Cali

3 months in Costa

4 boards

26 beach breaks

1 stingray

1 near drowning

1 tropical ear fungus

2 wetsuits

2 bikinis

2 sizes trimmer

3 shades darker

7 Brazilians (waxes not boys, although…)

1 campervan

1 Hawaiian surfing compadre

9 indecent proposals

13 books

3 pens

1 stolen cellphone

6 Spanish words for beautiful

=

1 ticket to surfing Australia

*shark insurance sold separately
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