10 Things My Hawaiian Brother Taught Me About Surfing

A summer cruisin’ Costa Rica with my Hanai brother, Nate. He drove, but now I’m heading home with my own set of keys.

  1. Walk before you run. (Translation: start with the small ones, leave the big ones for later.)
  2. Arch your back more.
  3. Getting to the line-up can be war. Prepare yourself for battle.
  4. When the wave breaks really fast, be more back on your board with your chest right up.
  5. When the wave breaks slower, move up and dig your chest down more.
  6. Paddle like shit. Always.
  7. Don’t give a fuck all day, except in the water. Then you give like 20 fucks.
  8. Be open to improvement… Unless you’re Kelly Slater. (Translation: You’re gonna eat it a lot, but that’s cool. You’re learning.)
  9. Eyes down the line.
  10. Go big, get shacked, get bombed, ride tubes, try slashers, say hi to the homeboys, shaka the big boys, and always, always, exit the water STOKED.
Tagged , , ,

One thought on “10 Things My Hawaiian Brother Taught Me About Surfing

  1. […] for the timely beta, Nate. It […]

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: