A summer cruisin’ Costa Rica with my Hanai brother, Nate. He drove, but now I’m heading home with my own set of keys.
- Walk before you run. (Translation: start with the small ones, leave the big ones for later.)
- Arch your back more.
- Getting to the line-up can be war. Prepare yourself for battle.
- When the wave breaks really fast, be more back on your board with your chest right up.
- When the wave breaks slower, move up and dig your chest down more.
- Paddle like shit. Always.
- Don’t give a fuck all day, except in the water. Then you give like 20 fucks.
- Be open to improvement… Unless you’re Kelly Slater. (Translation: You’re gonna eat it a lot, but that’s cool. You’re learning.)
- Eyes down the line.
- Go big, get shacked, get bombed, ride tubes, try slashers, say hi to the homeboys, shaka the big boys, and always, always, exit the water STOKED.
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