PONY UP OR EAT IT

I like big waves.

And also, I’m writing a book about surfing. Well, it’s probably gonna be an epublish and all that green stuff, but for now it’s a blook.

Haven’t decided whether to make it non-fiction (as in what really goes on out here) or creative non-fiction (like use your head Chinaski!)  on account of my mom being my biggest fan.

Probably the latter. (Thanks for the other book, Merran.)