I like big waves.
And also, I’m writing a book about surfing. Well, it’s probably gonna be an epublish and all that green stuff, but for now it’s a blook.
Haven’t decided whether to make it non-fiction (as in what really goes on out here) or creative non-fiction (like use your head Chinaski!) on account of my mom being my biggest fan.
Probably the latter. (Thanks for the other book, Merran.)
Big waves, big sharks, big jellyfish, big bites! Ouch!
Big puppies too, Mom!