I like big waves.
And also, I’m writing a book about surfing. Well, it’s probably gonna be an epublish and all that green stuff, but for now it’s a blook.
Haven’t decided whether to make it non-fiction (as in what really goes on out here) or creative non-fiction (like use your head Chinaski!) on account of my mom being my biggest fan.
Probably the latter. (Thanks for the other book, Merran.)