UNEDITED excerpt from
pony up or eat it
by nora o’malley
australia (checkmate, mate!)
A sea turtle introduced me to a lovely Kiwi boy today at Burleigh beach.
“Holy crap!” I said as it floated directly in between us.
“You’re not scared of a turtle are you?” he said.
“No! It just startled me.”
We watched the turtle swim away from us, then I gave him my sexiest smile. His tanned face was shaded by dirty blond hair and the blue long sleeve rash vest he had on made his blue eyes pop.
“I like your board,” I said.
“It’s not mine. I stole it from my house mate.”
“You saw the waves were good so you just jacked his board?”
“Where are you from?” he asked.
“Canada,” I said. “What about you?”
“Gisborne! It’s on the North Island of New Zealand. Have you ever been to New Zealand?”
“Nope. But I’d like too. I’ve heard it’s a lot like Canada only warmer.”
“I’m Finn,” he said.
“Nice to meet you, Kelleigh. How long are you in Australia for?”
“I moved here permanently. Got a couple job interviews lined up and everything.”
“Good for you! I’m trying to get a job. But mostly I’ve just been surfing.”
I shot him another mischievous smile.
“Have you surfed anywhere other than Burleigh yet?” he asked.
“Nope. It’s been Burleigh Heads all day everyday for me!”
Then Finn asked me the question, the ONE QUESTION every surfer girl wants a hot surfer boy to ask:
“Can I take you surfing?”
“FUCK YA!” I said.
Finn found a job at an adventure centre. He was now giving surf lessons at Burleigh beach and teaching indoor rock climbing. I was dating a surf instructor! But it’s not like I used that to my advantage or anything. I barely let Finn give me advice at all.
“That board’s too small for you, Kelleigh.”
“Maybe. But it’s easy to duck dive and get under the big ones. I can’t be walking to the beach everyday with a longboard under my arm.”
My choice of board had been a sore point in our blossoming relationship…
Read excerpt from part II: costa rica
Read excerpt from part I: california