Learn Australian

ta thanks

brekkie breakfast

maccas Macdonalds

Straya Australia

arvo afternoon

mozzies mosquitos

how ya going? how are you?

g’day hello

mate friend, buddy, pal, dude, etc etc (tag it on to pretty much any sentence)

reckon to gather/to think ei:reckon it’ll rain this arvo, mate?

Tally Ho a preferred brand of rolling papers

op shop thrift store

bogin’ redneck

frothin’ you feel it after a good session

teabaggin’ it sitting out on your board not catching waves, just floating

Bunyip A mythical creature (like a Sasquatch)

root, rooting, rooted fuck, fucking, fucked

Mermaid that’s me

no drama no worries

I reckon learning Australian is much easier than Learning Spanish, mate!

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see it

coup d’oeil

“The ornithologist David Sibley says that in Cape May, New Jersey, he once spotted a bird in flight from two hundred yards away and knew, instantly, that it was a ruff, a rare sandpiper. He had never seen a ruff in flight before; nor was the moment long enough for him to make a careful identification. But he was able to capture what bird-watchers call the bird’s “giss” – it’s essence – and that was enough.

- Malcolm Gladwell, blink: The power of thinking without thinking

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read

We may obsess about our PBs and mileage count, but these things alone are not enough to get us out running. We could find easier ways to chart and measure things. We could become trainspotters, or accountants. No, the times and charts are merely carrots we dangle in front of our rational mind, our over-analytical brain, to give it a reason to come along for the ride. What really drives us on is something else, this need to feel human, to reach below the multitude of layers of roles and responsibilities society has placed on us, down below the company name tags, even the father, the husband, son labels, to the pure, raw human being underneath. At such moments, our rational mind becomes redundant. We move from thought to feeling.

Running with the Kenyans: Discovering the secrets of the fastest people on earth. Written by Adharanand Finn.

Applies to surfing too.

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get a j.o.b.

The story of my life could easily be told by the water bottles I’ve owned (and lost) along the way.

Stoke the fires of the members’ desires Version 2.0 AU Division. (definite lolcoaster)

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the surf coast

World famous Bells Beach, Victoria, is renowned for its consistent big surf and is home to the longest running contest event on surfing’s World Championship Tour. The contest final on Easter Sunday 1965 was an epic event when Bells revealed its awesome power on a scale not seen before. The surf was extremely big and dangerous as depicted in this photograph of the shorebreak at the Winky Pop end of the beach.

© Barrie Sutherland Heritage Photograph.

Did I mention I like big waves?

P.S. I’m cold!

Barrie Sutherland is an Australian pioneer surf photographer who surfed and photographed the Victorian Surf Coast during the 1960s. His work is noted for its strong tonal quality and composition, reflecting the power-laden ground swells of the Surf Coast.

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flow

Stood there boldly
Sweating in the sun
Felt like a million
Felt like number one
The height of summer
I’d never felt that strong
Like a rock

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open up

departure

“At some point the story must take over. You are not going to be able to control it.”

Peter Taylor quoting Frank O’Connor

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climb

Has to do with surfing too…

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um dia

Sunset

Full Moon

Boas ondas at first light too.

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trade up

6’0” / 20 ½” / 2 ½”

Somewhere between here and there,

I found you.

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