As the cold southern sand kisses my feet
The quietness of the country
No one’s out but swell
Damn you Victoria
There’s a creative buzz about the city
Sun spot on a grassy knoll
No wonder she’s the world’s best
Damn you Victoria
The most delicious man approaches
Eyes me like a child
No telling where the story goes next
Damn you Victoria
So bloody beautiful and providing
Sadly far from home
No way I can stay?
DAMN YOU VICTORIA
ta thanks
brekkie breakfast
maccas Macdonalds
Straya Australia
arvo afternoon
mozzies mosquitos
how ya going? how are you?
g’day hello
mate friend, buddy, pal, dude, etc etc (tag it on to pretty much any sentence)
reckon to gather/to think ei:reckon it’ll rain this arvo, mate?
Tally Ho a preferred brand of rolling papers
op shop thrift store
bogin’ redneck
frothin’ you feel it after a good session
teabaggin’ it sitting out on your board not catching waves, just floating
Bunyip A mythical creature (like a Sasquatch)
root, rooting, rooted fuck, fucking, fucked
Mermaid that’s me
no drama no worries
I reckon learning Australian is much easier than Learning Spanish, mate!
coup d’oeil
“The ornithologist David Sibley says that in Cape May, New Jersey, he once spotted a bird in flight from two hundred yards away and knew, instantly, that it was a ruff, a rare sandpiper. He had never seen a ruff in flight before; nor was the moment long enough for him to make a careful identification. But he was able to capture what bird-watchers call the bird’s “giss” – it’s essence – and that was enough.“
- Malcolm Gladwell, blink: The power of thinking without thinking
We may obsess about our PBs and mileage count, but these things alone are not enough to get us out running. We could find easier ways to chart and measure things. We could become trainspotters, or accountants. No, the times and charts are merely carrots we dangle in front of our rational mind, our over-analytical brain, to give it a reason to come along for the ride. What really drives us on is something else, this need to feel human, to reach below the multitude of layers of roles and responsibilities society has placed on us, down below the company name tags, even the father, the husband, son labels, to the pure, raw human being underneath. At such moments, our rational mind becomes redundant. We move from thought to feeling.
Running with the Kenyans: Discovering the secrets of the fastest people on earth. Written by Adharanand Finn.
Applies to surfing too.
The story of my life could easily be told by the water bottles I’ve owned (and lost) along the way.
Stoke the fires of the members’ desires Version 2.0 AU Division. (definite lolcoaster)
World famous Bells Beach, Victoria, is renowned for its consistent big surf and is home to the longest running contest event on surfing’s World Championship Tour. The contest final on Easter Sunday 1965 was an epic event when Bells revealed its awesome power on a scale not seen before. The surf was extremely big and dangerous as depicted in this photograph of the shorebreak at the Winky Pop end of the beach.
© Barrie Sutherland Heritage Photograph.
Did I mention I like big waves?
P.S. I’m cold!
Barrie Sutherland is an Australian pioneer surf photographer who surfed and photographed the Victorian Surf Coast during the 1960s. His work is noted for its strong tonal quality and composition, reflecting the power-laden ground swells of the Surf Coast.
departure
“At some point the story must take over. You are not going to be able to control it.”
—Peter Taylor quoting Frank O’Connor
Sunset
Full Moon
Boas ondas at first light too.
